Cruising along the Sikkimese country is beautiful mixed with fear. Boulders strewn across the road and recent slips degrading the road in too recent times makes things a little more distracting.
Heading further and further into the cloud line we finally admitted that things were feeling a little 'chilly', something we said we would relish in the Indian plains, baking in 40C plus heat. The lush, dense forest makes it worth it and it is still actually hot despite now being at 2000m above sea level.
We rolled into Tashading despite the jeep driver forgetting to tell us when to get off. This really quaint little village, built on a and stretching along it up to a Buddhist Gompa we made it in the middle of low season- more and more we realise the BEST time to visit. We found an empty hotel and negotiated our usual "off season discount" of about 25-50% every time. The owner was the local school teacher and after eating in the one crappy restaurant that had anything to eat except momos he offered us a kerosene cooker. This is perfect fuel for the poor costing just Rs12 per liter (18p to cook at least 6 long-cooking time meals), subsidised by the Indian government. Nice one.
We had good views in Gangtok, but this takes it another level and we start to feel as though the view will a) never tire us and b) never stop impressing for each place we move to.
We also realised that we were in the middle of nowhere through a massive brown and black spider that was sitting on our wall. A mosquito net is crucial in India, not just for mosquitos, but we then realise to stop any other malicious insects and other animals from joining you in bed. We decided to leave the spider alone and in the morning it was gone, which was perhaps more disturbing, but we did not see it again. This place is a breeding ground for a multitude of species of spiders, butterflies and moths of all kinds. In the bathroom alone I counted at least 30 different types of moth, not just those with different markings, but those that were inherently different. I have never been interested in wildlife until I visited India and started encountering a variety of different animals, but this has taken my interest into the next level.
After we were setup and had eaten we headed up to the Gompa (monastery). We were tired as we were up at 5am, but pushed onwards and up for the 20 minute uphill climb. It was worth it. Gompas are beautiful but this especially so and the Tibetan Buddhist design work around them intricate in the wooden carving and brightly coloured paintwork depicting scenes from the Buddhist scriptures. It was positioned on the highest point on the ridge and so the views were as equally serene. The place was so tranquil we could have slept there easily in the most springy grass I have felt before. Driven by hunger however we retreated back to our Guesthouse/ Hotel and relaxed until the next day.
Tashading was a real local community and small enough village where we quickly became familiar faces and recognised and acknowledged the people there. We developed relationships and understandings with the local 'off license', the local fuel and medical store, and the local restaurant owner. This is great as they quickly know what you need and understand that they cannot rip you off. A few places tried to and we quickly made it known that we knew the score and moved our business elsewhere- permanently. I enjoy making this point immensely, as I still find it hard to understand how some people think that foreigners are so stupid and are prepared on paying double the going rate- I guess many do.
We had a few days of wandering around and generally hanging out, listening to people and seeing what people do in their daily lives in each place. On our second day we found a shack that was perched on the back of the steep mountainous hill, made by a young guy who based it on a Goan back shack. The place instead had 4 locals drinking cheap rum at 11am. Apparently he did food, but this turned out to be pasta only as he had nothing else... although it did have italian herbs, which none else has even heard of, so that was interesting. It was a shame though as he told me that he was going to change the place into a shop selling shirts, as the tourist season doesn't support it out of season. Instead locals all turn up, drink too much and have constant fights. This is surprising in a place that is so quiet and with so few people! he seemed despondent though and like other young people I have talked to wants to get out of Sikkim and head for the cities to get 'real' work and a 'real life'. It is funny that grass is always greener on the other side and I always explain the realities of living in a city like London when they claim that they love London so much, while they can tell me nothing about it. We sat on our private roof terrace that night discussing how we would love to live in Sikkim and the life here. We also decide to walk down to the river below the next day and go for a self-styled trek.
We were told the river was around an hour walk down some steps to the river- it wasn't far. We set off in the heat of the day and timed it to coincide with the daily routine of the early morning cloud cover (which literally surrounds Tashading) being burnt off by the sun and to get back before the cloud builds up again in the afternoon covering the village and raining later in the afternoon, before the distant evening storms in the plains. The steps were fine, despite being steep- for 2 minutes. Quickly the steps turned into mud steps, which narrowed as we headed deeper into the thickening jungle. The humidity increased massively, as did the heat and the climate change was incredible in how it changed. Sweat dripped non stop off my nose and I became dizzy with overheating. The river was only slightly bigger.
We headed deeper into the wilderness after we passed the hill people cultivating corn and carrying huge bails of greenery for their small number of livestock. The path disappeared and became steep, which slowed progress. Tropical animals sounds surrounded us now and we could not see our feet. I fell and landed in stinging nettles (5 times the size as those in the UK) after banging my head and really became disorientated. To make matters worse we packed only 2 litres of water to keep our weight burden light. We then had to decide whether to set back up or to continue into what was now pretty much nothing. We pushed on. Eventually the sound of the river really grew and actually looked reachable, but we were now walking along sections that had sheer drop offs into dense undergrowth- not a good place to slip, despite the ground being algae covered clay.
Our final decent was negotiating 5 rocks that were balanced across another steep drop into nothingness, these wobbled alarmingly as we hald onto each other, but finally charged through, incurring more stings and cuts. the river was no longer the peaceful thing we were daydreaming to previously, but completely not made for swimming in. Pools created by massive rocks generated by landslides were welcoming. Laura jumped into the side stream and instantly sank to her knees- she was still sinking. It was quicksand. Laura pulled herself out the other side and I jumped in arse first to spread my weight before climbing up onto the rocks on the other side. We knew that water tricking through rock is clean at the top of the hill and less so at the bottom, due to the increasing number of potential pollutants, but we had no option and filled the bottle with water. We sat in the pool with weight spread half onto the edge of the quicksand pool to cool off in the fresh water. I washed my underwear and sat naked for an hour in the sun. A beautiful moment to be cool and clean at the same time after being drenched in sweat. It is great to be reminded what nature can give you if you are prepared to take it.
The grueling climb back up was even harder on our legs and worked my lungs harder than they have worked in a while, but ascending from the tropical environment and back into the temperate environment higher up the mountain somehow made it easier because you were getting cooler as you were getting hotter- if you know what I mean!
We deserved meat after all that exertion and so headed to a man we had seen killing chickens by breaking their back the day earlier. The chicken in Sikkim roam free and are a beautiful yellow colour. We fried it in spiced and ate this with a tomato/potato combination while sipping Hit cool beer the guy had pre-chilled for us (they don't do this unless requested due to the cost of chilling drinks. We watched the football until the power was cut, as it usually is on a 4 times a day average.
After 5 days in Tashading we again decided to move on, as we could have easily stayed for longer, but more of Sikkim was calling. We knew that there was bound to be more places at least as beautiful as this and we were aware that we had also used half of our maximum time in Sikkim. We decided to move to Yuksom, which was the start of treks and the first capital of Sikkim.
Heading further and further into the cloud line we finally admitted that things were feeling a little 'chilly', something we said we would relish in the Indian plains, baking in 40C plus heat. The lush, dense forest makes it worth it and it is still actually hot despite now being at 2000m above sea level.
We rolled into Tashading despite the jeep driver forgetting to tell us when to get off. This really quaint little village, built on a and stretching along it up to a Buddhist Gompa we made it in the middle of low season- more and more we realise the BEST time to visit. We found an empty hotel and negotiated our usual "off season discount" of about 25-50% every time. The owner was the local school teacher and after eating in the one crappy restaurant that had anything to eat except momos he offered us a kerosene cooker. This is perfect fuel for the poor costing just Rs12 per liter (18p to cook at least 6 long-cooking time meals), subsidised by the Indian government. Nice one.
We had good views in Gangtok, but this takes it another level and we start to feel as though the view will a) never tire us and b) never stop impressing for each place we move to.
We also realised that we were in the middle of nowhere through a massive brown and black spider that was sitting on our wall. A mosquito net is crucial in India, not just for mosquitos, but we then realise to stop any other malicious insects and other animals from joining you in bed. We decided to leave the spider alone and in the morning it was gone, which was perhaps more disturbing, but we did not see it again. This place is a breeding ground for a multitude of species of spiders, butterflies and moths of all kinds. In the bathroom alone I counted at least 30 different types of moth, not just those with different markings, but those that were inherently different. I have never been interested in wildlife until I visited India and started encountering a variety of different animals, but this has taken my interest into the next level.
After we were setup and had eaten we headed up to the Gompa (monastery). We were tired as we were up at 5am, but pushed onwards and up for the 20 minute uphill climb. It was worth it. Gompas are beautiful but this especially so and the Tibetan Buddhist design work around them intricate in the wooden carving and brightly coloured paintwork depicting scenes from the Buddhist scriptures. It was positioned on the highest point on the ridge and so the views were as equally serene. The place was so tranquil we could have slept there easily in the most springy grass I have felt before. Driven by hunger however we retreated back to our Guesthouse/ Hotel and relaxed until the next day.
Tashading was a real local community and small enough village where we quickly became familiar faces and recognised and acknowledged the people there. We developed relationships and understandings with the local 'off license', the local fuel and medical store, and the local restaurant owner. This is great as they quickly know what you need and understand that they cannot rip you off. A few places tried to and we quickly made it known that we knew the score and moved our business elsewhere- permanently. I enjoy making this point immensely, as I still find it hard to understand how some people think that foreigners are so stupid and are prepared on paying double the going rate- I guess many do.
We had a few days of wandering around and generally hanging out, listening to people and seeing what people do in their daily lives in each place. On our second day we found a shack that was perched on the back of the steep mountainous hill, made by a young guy who based it on a Goan back shack. The place instead had 4 locals drinking cheap rum at 11am. Apparently he did food, but this turned out to be pasta only as he had nothing else... although it did have italian herbs, which none else has even heard of, so that was interesting. It was a shame though as he told me that he was going to change the place into a shop selling shirts, as the tourist season doesn't support it out of season. Instead locals all turn up, drink too much and have constant fights. This is surprising in a place that is so quiet and with so few people! he seemed despondent though and like other young people I have talked to wants to get out of Sikkim and head for the cities to get 'real' work and a 'real life'. It is funny that grass is always greener on the other side and I always explain the realities of living in a city like London when they claim that they love London so much, while they can tell me nothing about it. We sat on our private roof terrace that night discussing how we would love to live in Sikkim and the life here. We also decide to walk down to the river below the next day and go for a self-styled trek.
We were told the river was around an hour walk down some steps to the river- it wasn't far. We set off in the heat of the day and timed it to coincide with the daily routine of the early morning cloud cover (which literally surrounds Tashading) being burnt off by the sun and to get back before the cloud builds up again in the afternoon covering the village and raining later in the afternoon, before the distant evening storms in the plains. The steps were fine, despite being steep- for 2 minutes. Quickly the steps turned into mud steps, which narrowed as we headed deeper into the thickening jungle. The humidity increased massively, as did the heat and the climate change was incredible in how it changed. Sweat dripped non stop off my nose and I became dizzy with overheating. The river was only slightly bigger.
We headed deeper into the wilderness after we passed the hill people cultivating corn and carrying huge bails of greenery for their small number of livestock. The path disappeared and became steep, which slowed progress. Tropical animals sounds surrounded us now and we could not see our feet. I fell and landed in stinging nettles (5 times the size as those in the UK) after banging my head and really became disorientated. To make matters worse we packed only 2 litres of water to keep our weight burden light. We then had to decide whether to set back up or to continue into what was now pretty much nothing. We pushed on. Eventually the sound of the river really grew and actually looked reachable, but we were now walking along sections that had sheer drop offs into dense undergrowth- not a good place to slip, despite the ground being algae covered clay.
Our final decent was negotiating 5 rocks that were balanced across another steep drop into nothingness, these wobbled alarmingly as we hald onto each other, but finally charged through, incurring more stings and cuts. the river was no longer the peaceful thing we were daydreaming to previously, but completely not made for swimming in. Pools created by massive rocks generated by landslides were welcoming. Laura jumped into the side stream and instantly sank to her knees- she was still sinking. It was quicksand. Laura pulled herself out the other side and I jumped in arse first to spread my weight before climbing up onto the rocks on the other side. We knew that water tricking through rock is clean at the top of the hill and less so at the bottom, due to the increasing number of potential pollutants, but we had no option and filled the bottle with water. We sat in the pool with weight spread half onto the edge of the quicksand pool to cool off in the fresh water. I washed my underwear and sat naked for an hour in the sun. A beautiful moment to be cool and clean at the same time after being drenched in sweat. It is great to be reminded what nature can give you if you are prepared to take it.
The grueling climb back up was even harder on our legs and worked my lungs harder than they have worked in a while, but ascending from the tropical environment and back into the temperate environment higher up the mountain somehow made it easier because you were getting cooler as you were getting hotter- if you know what I mean!
We deserved meat after all that exertion and so headed to a man we had seen killing chickens by breaking their back the day earlier. The chicken in Sikkim roam free and are a beautiful yellow colour. We fried it in spiced and ate this with a tomato/potato combination while sipping Hit cool beer the guy had pre-chilled for us (they don't do this unless requested due to the cost of chilling drinks. We watched the football until the power was cut, as it usually is on a 4 times a day average.
After 5 days in Tashading we again decided to move on, as we could have easily stayed for longer, but more of Sikkim was calling. We knew that there was bound to be more places at least as beautiful as this and we were aware that we had also used half of our maximum time in Sikkim. We decided to move to Yuksom, which was the start of treks and the first capital of Sikkim.Enjoyed this story?
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