I could get used to this... Relaxing in a goan paradise, hanging out with the Boom Shankar guys, who are all ace. The great thing about this time of year is that there are hardly any tourists. The beach is empty, the service quick and personable. Ok that is more than one thing, but this makes me think this is not the worst time to go as the guide books suggest, but in fact the best time. Little Vagator beach is only small and so with loads of tourists it would be too hectic and not enough room in the sea. This quite time was exactly what the doctor order also, so we couldn't be happier. My Hindi is also making progress as a result, with the help of the staff and we have just learnt how to play a game called Karrum, which is a traditional Indian board game of skill. I'm not explaining- look it up, but I want a table for sure!
Boom Shankar's place is on the beach and not in the guide books (another reason to be skeptical about being reliant on them) and was one of the originals, as is the owner- a complete legend. They have a special license to have sunbeds on the beach without charging, lend you their body boards and Rahul sorted me out with a SIM card without having to register with my passport or pay for it- sweet. This is why we don't feel bad for not deviating from this place or our now firm daily schedule... but something must get on the agenda soon, as despite self-reassurances we do feel bad eating Westernised food and not moving or exploring. But hey!...after all this is our holiday time of the adventure too! Regarding the food issue too you cannot argue with their "sizzlers"- white cabbage dishes, one containing fries, one with a thick veggie gray and veggie dumplings, one with steamed veg and one with steamed rice- arriving on your table on a sizzling skillet. It smells, looks and tastes amazing. As one of the most expensive things on the menu (a whopping Rs100 or 1 pound 30) it is definitely worth it.
Evenings are spent glazing over the sunsets, which are very special, more surfing (enough for me to have my 180s down) with the sun going down in the distance and a few beers if our 11 pound a day budget stretches to it. Smoking at the back of the bar only coupled with discussions with the locals about etiquette, toilet habits, where to go (apparently everyone has to go to Manali) is also the order of the day and is great preparation for the rest of India. We have been known to head to the Mango tree, which is a bar/ restaurant open late. You can sit on bar stools on the road side, people come and go, stop by to say hello to people and you get a clear sense of the expat community who are all hippies now in their 60's/ 70's and ended up staying in Goa. I can see why. Apart from a real idiot Canadian guy who is insistent on being overly loud and obnoxious everyone is very chilled out and friendly.
Everyone it seems rents mopeds in India, where you need a licence, but if the police catch you without one a few quid will make that go away. It makes sense, although Laura and 2 wheeled vehicles don't work too well and I am cautious of gritty roads and other overly sensible things. Irrational perhaps, but having driven a motorbike for a year think it is valid, especially seeing the traffic behaviour, random cows walking around and other such dangers. We decide to go for it anyway, as otherwise we will not leave Vagator and that would be a bit of a shame given that we have been recommended so many different places and heard good things about Arunbol. The clencher is a Banyan tree in a patch of jungle near the beach in Arunbol near a "sweet water" lake, fed from the hills.
So we embark on our Rs150 (negotiated from 200 due to low season- another fine perk) moped journey at around 9am and I quickly get a taste for biking again. It really is, errr like riding a bike!? It really is the best way to see a place as well, cruising along in the sun, past temples and open arid land. Biking here is the same as Ho Chi Min in that you just need to beep your horn and go for it, and be as aware of everything at all times including anything unexpected, which is normal. An example? Try a monkey jumping at head height across your path 2 meters in front of you when you are doing 40mph, trying to escape from a grass fire!
After winding through the lanes through small shack based villages we reach Arunbol beach and have a coffee before asking directions towards the lake. Arunbol beach is fairly tourist driven, but now it is mostly Indian tourists drinking their beers at 10am and not westerners. Walking along a head in the rock face and past amazing apartments jutting out over the beach with the best views known to man we reach the now completely empty and secluded lake, full of fish 1-3 inches long that surprise you when they start nibbling...
We have a few special occasions during our trip and after debates and assessment came up with the idea that for each special occasion we have a "cool activity credit" of sorts. Ultimately we may not be in the best place for celebrating, but by saving these credits can justifying the blowing of budget on something we really want to do, a hotel upgrade etc etc. The first occasion is our anniversary on the 13th May. We looked into plush hotels but for the price do not feel they are good value for money. Instead we decide to hangout in Anjuna for the day, extend the bike hire for a day and see what happens.
We have been told of a place called Lilliputs but have yet to check it out. Heading that direction we pass the mango tree and meet the recommender himself- Greg. He joins us with another friend and set off for a day of beach action. The beach is narrow and not as good as Vagator, but there is chilled music here and fairly busy, which is a novelty. At 11am I decide to get some cocktails in (about three times as expensive as a meal- Rs 150). The upstairs area has a fab view and so we relax and decide to blow a week or two's worth of beer budget... free pool and meeting loads of new people made it a really good day, a touristy one, but that actually made a change and it was good to meet new faces. As expected i.e the unexpected Curlies (Psytrance party) is on tonight and it is next door... how convenient. So we spend the evening dancing to some well mixed (for the first time here) tunes. The beach is a sight as sellers set up camp with everything you could want additives in watermelon, omlettes, fruit, cigerettes and water. We order and chat to the barman and I congratulate him on a good place (he owns it) and so he 'turbo's up our drink at no extra. Going to the toilet however I am absolutely amazed to see the biggest rat I have ever seen casually walking around the cooking pots. I turn to one of the cooks as ask what he is going to do about it. He shrugs and carries on. Ok I'll do something about it.... so I pick the little bastard up by its tail with a gurgling squeal. It's tail is literally 1/2cm fat. "I have to show Laura this". So I proceed to walk the rat through the dance floor, past the bar and to the edge of the bar where Laura is sat with everyone to screams, shouts, claps, cheers and everything in between. The rat is curling up to bite me but can't reach. I am not sure if Laura is impressed so ask people what they think i should do with it ( I am not sure stamping on it or letting it go would pan out). Yes throw it in the sea.... ok. Plop. Better not have that omelette sandwich now then. Back to dancing until the party ends at 1am- the latest yet and drive/ wobble home very slowly. Note: stupid? yes, necessary? yes, careful? yes. I've never drunk driven before as it is the one thing I really don't agree with and certainly was much more careful than the others in our cavalcade.
Our time here couldn't go slowly enough, but soon we realise that we must start to look into trains to get us out of here. Unfortunately that seemed to be more of a mission than we bargained for.
Evenings are spent glazing over the sunsets, which are very special, more surfing (enough for me to have my 180s down) with the sun going down in the distance and a few beers if our 11 pound a day budget stretches to it. Smoking at the back of the bar only coupled with discussions with the locals about etiquette, toilet habits, where to go (apparently everyone has to go to Manali) is also the order of the day and is great preparation for the rest of India. We have been known to head to the Mango tree, which is a bar/ restaurant open late. You can sit on bar stools on the road side, people come and go, stop by to say hello to people and you get a clear sense of the expat community who are all hippies now in their 60's/ 70's and ended up staying in Goa. I can see why. Apart from a real idiot Canadian guy who is insistent on being overly loud and obnoxious everyone is very chilled out and friendly.
Everyone it seems rents mopeds in India, where you need a licence, but if the police catch you without one a few quid will make that go away. It makes sense, although Laura and 2 wheeled vehicles don't work too well and I am cautious of gritty roads and other overly sensible things. Irrational perhaps, but having driven a motorbike for a year think it is valid, especially seeing the traffic behaviour, random cows walking around and other such dangers. We decide to go for it anyway, as otherwise we will not leave Vagator and that would be a bit of a shame given that we have been recommended so many different places and heard good things about Arunbol. The clencher is a Banyan tree in a patch of jungle near the beach in Arunbol near a "sweet water" lake, fed from the hills.
So we embark on our Rs150 (negotiated from 200 due to low season- another fine perk) moped journey at around 9am and I quickly get a taste for biking again. It really is, errr like riding a bike!? It really is the best way to see a place as well, cruising along in the sun, past temples and open arid land. Biking here is the same as Ho Chi Min in that you just need to beep your horn and go for it, and be as aware of everything at all times including anything unexpected, which is normal. An example? Try a monkey jumping at head height across your path 2 meters in front of you when you are doing 40mph, trying to escape from a grass fire!
After winding through the lanes through small shack based villages we reach Arunbol beach and have a coffee before asking directions towards the lake. Arunbol beach is fairly tourist driven, but now it is mostly Indian tourists drinking their beers at 10am and not westerners. Walking along a head in the rock face and past amazing apartments jutting out over the beach with the best views known to man we reach the now completely empty and secluded lake, full of fish 1-3 inches long that surprise you when they start nibbling...
We have a few special occasions during our trip and after debates and assessment came up with the idea that for each special occasion we have a "cool activity credit" of sorts. Ultimately we may not be in the best place for celebrating, but by saving these credits can justifying the blowing of budget on something we really want to do, a hotel upgrade etc etc. The first occasion is our anniversary on the 13th May. We looked into plush hotels but for the price do not feel they are good value for money. Instead we decide to hangout in Anjuna for the day, extend the bike hire for a day and see what happens.
We have been told of a place called Lilliputs but have yet to check it out. Heading that direction we pass the mango tree and meet the recommender himself- Greg. He joins us with another friend and set off for a day of beach action. The beach is narrow and not as good as Vagator, but there is chilled music here and fairly busy, which is a novelty. At 11am I decide to get some cocktails in (about three times as expensive as a meal- Rs 150). The upstairs area has a fab view and so we relax and decide to blow a week or two's worth of beer budget... free pool and meeting loads of new people made it a really good day, a touristy one, but that actually made a change and it was good to meet new faces. As expected i.e the unexpected Curlies (Psytrance party) is on tonight and it is next door... how convenient. So we spend the evening dancing to some well mixed (for the first time here) tunes. The beach is a sight as sellers set up camp with everything you could want additives in watermelon, omlettes, fruit, cigerettes and water. We order and chat to the barman and I congratulate him on a good place (he owns it) and so he 'turbo's up our drink at no extra. Going to the toilet however I am absolutely amazed to see the biggest rat I have ever seen casually walking around the cooking pots. I turn to one of the cooks as ask what he is going to do about it. He shrugs and carries on. Ok I'll do something about it.... so I pick the little bastard up by its tail with a gurgling squeal. It's tail is literally 1/2cm fat. "I have to show Laura this". So I proceed to walk the rat through the dance floor, past the bar and to the edge of the bar where Laura is sat with everyone to screams, shouts, claps, cheers and everything in between. The rat is curling up to bite me but can't reach. I am not sure if Laura is impressed so ask people what they think i should do with it ( I am not sure stamping on it or letting it go would pan out). Yes throw it in the sea.... ok. Plop. Better not have that omelette sandwich now then. Back to dancing until the party ends at 1am- the latest yet and drive/ wobble home very slowly. Note: stupid? yes, necessary? yes, careful? yes. I've never drunk driven before as it is the one thing I really don't agree with and certainly was much more careful than the others in our cavalcade.
Our time here couldn't go slowly enough, but soon we realise that we must start to look into trains to get us out of here. Unfortunately that seemed to be more of a mission than we bargained for.Enjoyed this story?
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