A 6am jeep ride in the torrential rain was like being at Universal Studios, only on this 'Wet and Wild' ride you CAN die. The land was really saturated and we went past many landslides that had been cleared. At one point we went under a small waterfall. The goat in the back of the jeep took it all in his stride though...obviously quite a norm to have such a journey!
Arriving in Pelling, we went for breakfast a hostel in town with the hope of securing a cheap room there too. The breakfast hall was really crowded with about 60 people all eating Subzi Puri (Indian style breakfast of veggie slob and fried chapati). It turned out that the crowd was a Bhutanese film crew. A few of them wearing traditional Bhutanese clothing socks with flip flops and a silk dressing gown! One man in this attire was the most famous actor in Bhutan. Al got the all important tourist snap, which we didn't want but we thought would be apt considering the temporary entourage they had collected.
In the breakfast hall we also met 2 English girls and 1 Israeli guy, who turned out to be good companions for the following week. They were the most British people I had spoken to since arriving in India, and weirdly, very refreshing and funny!
We opted for a room in another hotel nearby, after I stayed and drank tea with the girls and Al marched around in the rain haggling for the best deal. What a star :) Our room was at the top of Pelling (the whole town was situated on a steep hill). It was a clean room with a communal balcony, hot shower and a TV (for the all important final of the World Cup)- all for Rs200 (4 quid). So we were happy and looking forward to digging in for a little while. We both agree in the philosophy that when traveling for a long period of time and moving around a lot, it is important to have chill out days too. This felt like the right place to achieve this.
With the continued interest to do volunteering work, we hear about the possibility of working at an English school and orphanage run by a Buddhist monastery, Pemayangste. We decide to explore this opportunity and walk up to the monastery to speak to the monk in charge, Cptn Yongda. The walk out of Pelling to the monastery is fantastic. Large pine trees line the steep winding road, with cloud flowing through the trunks makes the place feel very magical. We saw this sign on the way, it seemed pretty apt:
En route to the monastery we stumble across a little bakery. They serve good coffee and selection of bakery items. I am in heaven, as only days earlier I had dreamt about eating cake! This served as a good pit stop for our ascent to the monastery where we located Captain Yongda. He was in the middle of a meeting, but saw us waiting in his office, so unexpectedly excused himself so he could speak with us. He was one of those people that had an amazing aura about him. I think he is the first person like it I have ever met. He felt important, but kind and generous all at once. He explained to us that it wouldn't be possible to work at the school as we required a work permit in Sikkim. He could see we were disappointed, so said that if we keep a low key we could help out at the bakery, which we then learnt gave the profits to the school and orphanage, also set up by him. Excellent! I was so excited to be able to put my bakery skills to good use. He asked us if we could teach the staff some English bakery. Green Tea cake immediately sprung to mind! Al was eager to teach Cheese Twists...sorted. We agreed to come and help in a few days time. Just as we were ready to leave his office, he invited us into his important meeting and introduced us to several important distinguished men of Sikkim, including the Mayor and Headmaster of the school.
After a quick introduction we headed back to the Monastery to have a look around. There was one room that we couldn't pin point at first, but the sound of a low drum beat echoed around the wooden building and a drone of Buddhist chanting could be heard. We had heard of this monastery from other foreigners who said it was amazing, and it was. There is an air about a place and this was one of them. Truly intoxicating peace combined with awe of the intimidating statues towering over the rooms, decorated by detailed artworks from the ancient scriptures (as above).
The top floor had a massive wooden carving of the Buddhist circle of life, which was described to us, but didn't prepare us for it. It was massive, took 5 years to make and was really intricate. Around the walls images of the different incarnations of Buddha and his disciples. Interestingly there were also curtains scattered around the wall that looked out of place.... Al had a cheeky peek and found the above image. The Buddhists today mostly renounce the sexual yoga and spiritual development through sexual acts, but as an old monastery we guessed that these pieces had been produced before this change in the Buddhist moral code. Feeling guilty of having a look under deliberately placed cover but believing that this is an important part of Buddhist history and also assured by the thought that if no one sees us then no one is offended (a philosophical treatment in itself) we sure caught a glimpse of things that no one else had dared, as we found out later in the hotel. We felt awed as we left and a sense of peace from the leader of the monastery, the place itself, setting and the thought that we can help support their activities.
As we had just arrived we decided to rest in our decent room for 2 days before helping out at the bakery. We watched some of the world cup games on our TV, ate at the hotel restaurant and became acquainted with the staff who were Sikkimese through and through. That evening we decided with our new traveller companions to buy in some beers etc. The shop down the road were charging far higher than the "MRP" (maximum retail price), which is a good guide to avoid being conned. There are a few "added extras", e.g. blags that people give to charge more. This time it was transportation from Gazing, where most people in West Sikkim buy their weekly provisions. With company Al really couldn't be bothered to engage in a debate, but let the lady know that we knew her game.
That evening was spent drinking "Hit" 8% beer, a few Old Monk rum and cokes and some laughs with most people staying at the hotel (collectively we were loud enough to force everyone to join in!) We met a crazy New Zealand guy whose mustache has grown so long it was permanently in his mouth. I told Al that he better not go that far! We watched the world cup and relaxed, intermittently staring out at another amazing view and chatting to the owner about Sikkim. The owner was a very proud Sikkimese man who disliked the West Bengalis treating the place like a holiday home. This is why most the hotels are closed during the low season, as the Bengalis only come to capitalise on the tourist season, so the place is empty in low season. He was pleased to hear that we were to be helping out at the bakery the next day and also warned us of the bakeries in town who are very bad at changing their stock and reports of people getting ill from them. Who would have thought- illness by cakes. The world is so unfair.
The next day we set off at 7:30am walking the 3km through the wet heavily forested road, lined with rocks dripping water through the moss that covers them to the school. No one was there. We had let them know, but also knew that we were still in India. At 8:30am two girls we had seen the other day turned up. We went inside and tried to tell them that we had come to help, but they didn't seem to understand or want to either and instead started cleaning. Despite numerous attempts to help we failed and were met with "Yonga, ok". We waited almost an hour until another man turned up and who spoke enough English to know what we were trying to do and made some suggestions of how to help. They didn't seem to know we were coming like they were supposed to. Eventually however another guy turned up who was to start learning and ultimately becoming the main baker. He was happy for us to help and teach him some recipes.
We soon found out that this was to be harder than we thought. The place was ultimately very poorly maintained and levels of hygiene were poor. There was no real record of how old items were, moldy dough was left on the side, nothing was washed well and the place was, overall dirty. The guy took no responsibility nor directed cause, but Al reiterated that the most important aspect of getting this right had to be a good level of cleanliness and effective stock control in the first instance. The next issue was ingredients. There was no butter, a kind of requisite for a bakery. Al went first to bake his cheese straws and substituted butter for oil. We paid for the cheese to make them and other ingredients and were amazed when they turned out better than they do at home. The price per unit would be fairly high as a 200gm block of cheese is Rs100, but the tourists would love them. A success under the circumstances and while Al began cleaning and sorting out the equipment I set about baking a green tea cake with no butter and only black tea. In just half the day the cake was out and despite being a little sunken in the middle due to fluctuating temperature in the oven as a result of bread being cooked in the meantime. Al had passed on a recipe and the kitchen was now spotless, old rusted tins disposed of and things a little ordered. Next Al got wind of an entrance problem, where the rainwater flowed around the steps in and meant kids had to walk through water. He set about building a bridge and moat to stretch across the front of the bakery so that in the monsoon the water wouldn't cause an entrance problem. Using the silver and gold rock in the area he made a gold entrance for the place that looked amazing!
At around 4pm we were invited for lunch at the school. We headed up and met some of the local kids who live at the school through being orphaned and were cooked a freshly picked meal of 'spring greens' with Dal, rice and Nepali (hot) Aloo Dum, which was becoming a favourite of ours. We were starving and so ate gladly, especially because of how fresh and good for you a vegetarian/ rice meal is for you. We left the school and headed back to the hotel afterwards full to the brim and having realised that we had done all we could at the bakery at that time. Our first volunteering experience was a good one and despite initial misunderstandings, felt they had been glad of the support and that we actually left something of worth behind to benefit the place, which is something that many people do not feel afterwards.
We also bought some bread to supplement our breakfast next day as we sensed that things were racking up towards 'expensive', a bad point of adding things to your bill. The single aluminium pot we bought in Tashading was becoming useful for storing random bits like tomatoes and onion that can be used to make sandwiches or supplement egg on toast for breakfast and makes things cheaper. We are all about cheaper.
After another "Internet day" and relax we said goodbye to the English girls and set off for a walk back down the road we came from. The rains had developed many more waterfalls that we collected water from and Al clambered up insisting on a shower in a waterfall, which is easier said than done!
We had no direction, but always find that the best way. We saw fresh landslips since our arrival, found the local TB clinic which we learned is in every town or available. TB is still a killer in India, but the government are making free medicine available to make this a thing of the past. After a few hours we reached a point where a traditional village was supposed to be. We saw a few houses that were wooden but built on base pile of uncemented stone and double slanted tin roof with a gap at the top point to let fire smoke out. This didn't seem like a village though. Either way the rain which had been a drizzle was now a downpour and so we decided to head back, by jeep if one was passing through. After 10 minutes of heading back we heard a jeep sound, but it was a goods carrier. Either way they let us ride with them to Tashading, bouncing around inches from the roadslips above the overly large drop below with our heavy stone cargo. We said our thankyous and without saying a word in acknowledgment or goodbye set off back to the saftey of our hotel room. En route we decided to eat in a roadside shack looking place for a fix of Indian food and ate well for Rs40 (60p). Many places are such a disappointment, but it is always great when you find a cheap shack that serves great food at almost no cost.
That evening as we were due to set off to Khecheopalri Lake Al asked to watch the preparation of a Thentuk, the Tibetan soup we had been eating to add to his growing recipe collection, so ended up making his own dinner! We realise that Sikkimese food is great, but the range is fairly limited and so Indian food is always welcome as we realised at lunch. We did also realise that we were going to take home a bad momo habit and craving that we would need to maintain!
The next day after our usual combo of egg on toast with additional market extras we sorted our bill, reminded ourselves that 35 pound for 5 days stay with hot water and TV, including most meals was still excellent value and waited by the side of the road in glorious sunshine and a sweat for the first time in a week waiting for the arranged jeep to the lake.
- Written by Laura
In the breakfast hall we also met 2 English girls and 1 Israeli guy, who turned out to be good companions for the following week. They were the most British people I had spoken to since arriving in India, and weirdly, very refreshing and funny!
We opted for a room in another hotel nearby, after I stayed and drank tea with the girls and Al marched around in the rain haggling for the best deal. What a star :) Our room was at the top of Pelling (the whole town was situated on a steep hill). It was a clean room with a communal balcony, hot shower and a TV (for the all important final of the World Cup)- all for Rs200 (4 quid). So we were happy and looking forward to digging in for a little while. We both agree in the philosophy that when traveling for a long period of time and moving around a lot, it is important to have chill out days too. This felt like the right place to achieve this.
With the continued interest to do volunteering work, we hear about the possibility of working at an English school and orphanage run by a Buddhist monastery, Pemayangste. We decide to explore this opportunity and walk up to the monastery to speak to the monk in charge, Cptn Yongda. The walk out of Pelling to the monastery is fantastic. Large pine trees line the steep winding road, with cloud flowing through the trunks makes the place feel very magical. We saw this sign on the way, it seemed pretty apt:
En route to the monastery we stumble across a little bakery. They serve good coffee and selection of bakery items. I am in heaven, as only days earlier I had dreamt about eating cake! This served as a good pit stop for our ascent to the monastery where we located Captain Yongda. He was in the middle of a meeting, but saw us waiting in his office, so unexpectedly excused himself so he could speak with us. He was one of those people that had an amazing aura about him. I think he is the first person like it I have ever met. He felt important, but kind and generous all at once. He explained to us that it wouldn't be possible to work at the school as we required a work permit in Sikkim. He could see we were disappointed, so said that if we keep a low key we could help out at the bakery, which we then learnt gave the profits to the school and orphanage, also set up by him. Excellent! I was so excited to be able to put my bakery skills to good use. He asked us if we could teach the staff some English bakery. Green Tea cake immediately sprung to mind! Al was eager to teach Cheese Twists...sorted. We agreed to come and help in a few days time. Just as we were ready to leave his office, he invited us into his important meeting and introduced us to several important distinguished men of Sikkim, including the Mayor and Headmaster of the school.
After a quick introduction we headed back to the Monastery to have a look around. There was one room that we couldn't pin point at first, but the sound of a low drum beat echoed around the wooden building and a drone of Buddhist chanting could be heard. We had heard of this monastery from other foreigners who said it was amazing, and it was. There is an air about a place and this was one of them. Truly intoxicating peace combined with awe of the intimidating statues towering over the rooms, decorated by detailed artworks from the ancient scriptures (as above).
The top floor had a massive wooden carving of the Buddhist circle of life, which was described to us, but didn't prepare us for it. It was massive, took 5 years to make and was really intricate. Around the walls images of the different incarnations of Buddha and his disciples. Interestingly there were also curtains scattered around the wall that looked out of place.... Al had a cheeky peek and found the above image. The Buddhists today mostly renounce the sexual yoga and spiritual development through sexual acts, but as an old monastery we guessed that these pieces had been produced before this change in the Buddhist moral code. Feeling guilty of having a look under deliberately placed cover but believing that this is an important part of Buddhist history and also assured by the thought that if no one sees us then no one is offended (a philosophical treatment in itself) we sure caught a glimpse of things that no one else had dared, as we found out later in the hotel. We felt awed as we left and a sense of peace from the leader of the monastery, the place itself, setting and the thought that we can help support their activities.
As we had just arrived we decided to rest in our decent room for 2 days before helping out at the bakery. We watched some of the world cup games on our TV, ate at the hotel restaurant and became acquainted with the staff who were Sikkimese through and through. That evening we decided with our new traveller companions to buy in some beers etc. The shop down the road were charging far higher than the "MRP" (maximum retail price), which is a good guide to avoid being conned. There are a few "added extras", e.g. blags that people give to charge more. This time it was transportation from Gazing, where most people in West Sikkim buy their weekly provisions. With company Al really couldn't be bothered to engage in a debate, but let the lady know that we knew her game.
That evening was spent drinking "Hit" 8% beer, a few Old Monk rum and cokes and some laughs with most people staying at the hotel (collectively we were loud enough to force everyone to join in!) We met a crazy New Zealand guy whose mustache has grown so long it was permanently in his mouth. I told Al that he better not go that far! We watched the world cup and relaxed, intermittently staring out at another amazing view and chatting to the owner about Sikkim. The owner was a very proud Sikkimese man who disliked the West Bengalis treating the place like a holiday home. This is why most the hotels are closed during the low season, as the Bengalis only come to capitalise on the tourist season, so the place is empty in low season. He was pleased to hear that we were to be helping out at the bakery the next day and also warned us of the bakeries in town who are very bad at changing their stock and reports of people getting ill from them. Who would have thought- illness by cakes. The world is so unfair.
The next day we set off at 7:30am walking the 3km through the wet heavily forested road, lined with rocks dripping water through the moss that covers them to the school. No one was there. We had let them know, but also knew that we were still in India. At 8:30am two girls we had seen the other day turned up. We went inside and tried to tell them that we had come to help, but they didn't seem to understand or want to either and instead started cleaning. Despite numerous attempts to help we failed and were met with "Yonga, ok". We waited almost an hour until another man turned up and who spoke enough English to know what we were trying to do and made some suggestions of how to help. They didn't seem to know we were coming like they were supposed to. Eventually however another guy turned up who was to start learning and ultimately becoming the main baker. He was happy for us to help and teach him some recipes.
We soon found out that this was to be harder than we thought. The place was ultimately very poorly maintained and levels of hygiene were poor. There was no real record of how old items were, moldy dough was left on the side, nothing was washed well and the place was, overall dirty. The guy took no responsibility nor directed cause, but Al reiterated that the most important aspect of getting this right had to be a good level of cleanliness and effective stock control in the first instance. The next issue was ingredients. There was no butter, a kind of requisite for a bakery. Al went first to bake his cheese straws and substituted butter for oil. We paid for the cheese to make them and other ingredients and were amazed when they turned out better than they do at home. The price per unit would be fairly high as a 200gm block of cheese is Rs100, but the tourists would love them. A success under the circumstances and while Al began cleaning and sorting out the equipment I set about baking a green tea cake with no butter and only black tea. In just half the day the cake was out and despite being a little sunken in the middle due to fluctuating temperature in the oven as a result of bread being cooked in the meantime. Al had passed on a recipe and the kitchen was now spotless, old rusted tins disposed of and things a little ordered. Next Al got wind of an entrance problem, where the rainwater flowed around the steps in and meant kids had to walk through water. He set about building a bridge and moat to stretch across the front of the bakery so that in the monsoon the water wouldn't cause an entrance problem. Using the silver and gold rock in the area he made a gold entrance for the place that looked amazing!
At around 4pm we were invited for lunch at the school. We headed up and met some of the local kids who live at the school through being orphaned and were cooked a freshly picked meal of 'spring greens' with Dal, rice and Nepali (hot) Aloo Dum, which was becoming a favourite of ours. We were starving and so ate gladly, especially because of how fresh and good for you a vegetarian/ rice meal is for you. We left the school and headed back to the hotel afterwards full to the brim and having realised that we had done all we could at the bakery at that time. Our first volunteering experience was a good one and despite initial misunderstandings, felt they had been glad of the support and that we actually left something of worth behind to benefit the place, which is something that many people do not feel afterwards.
We also bought some bread to supplement our breakfast next day as we sensed that things were racking up towards 'expensive', a bad point of adding things to your bill. The single aluminium pot we bought in Tashading was becoming useful for storing random bits like tomatoes and onion that can be used to make sandwiches or supplement egg on toast for breakfast and makes things cheaper. We are all about cheaper.
After another "Internet day" and relax we said goodbye to the English girls and set off for a walk back down the road we came from. The rains had developed many more waterfalls that we collected water from and Al clambered up insisting on a shower in a waterfall, which is easier said than done!
We had no direction, but always find that the best way. We saw fresh landslips since our arrival, found the local TB clinic which we learned is in every town or available. TB is still a killer in India, but the government are making free medicine available to make this a thing of the past. After a few hours we reached a point where a traditional village was supposed to be. We saw a few houses that were wooden but built on base pile of uncemented stone and double slanted tin roof with a gap at the top point to let fire smoke out. This didn't seem like a village though. Either way the rain which had been a drizzle was now a downpour and so we decided to head back, by jeep if one was passing through. After 10 minutes of heading back we heard a jeep sound, but it was a goods carrier. Either way they let us ride with them to Tashading, bouncing around inches from the roadslips above the overly large drop below with our heavy stone cargo. We said our thankyous and without saying a word in acknowledgment or goodbye set off back to the saftey of our hotel room. En route we decided to eat in a roadside shack looking place for a fix of Indian food and ate well for Rs40 (60p). Many places are such a disappointment, but it is always great when you find a cheap shack that serves great food at almost no cost.
That evening as we were due to set off to Khecheopalri Lake Al asked to watch the preparation of a Thentuk, the Tibetan soup we had been eating to add to his growing recipe collection, so ended up making his own dinner! We realise that Sikkimese food is great, but the range is fairly limited and so Indian food is always welcome as we realised at lunch. We did also realise that we were going to take home a bad momo habit and craving that we would need to maintain!
The next day after our usual combo of egg on toast with additional market extras we sorted our bill, reminded ourselves that 35 pound for 5 days stay with hot water and TV, including most meals was still excellent value and waited by the side of the road in glorious sunshine and a sweat for the first time in a week waiting for the arranged jeep to the lake.
- Written by LauraEnjoyed this story?
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