It was chucking it down when we arrived at 11:30pm. Only very seedy motels lined the road leading up to the bus station so we realised that we would have to catc a tuk tuk into the centre to look for a bed. Whilst Al left me on the bus concourse with all our bags, he made a dash for the toilet and a lone traveller came an asked me if he could share a tuk tuk with us. The swiss guy, Lorenzo, accompanied us in a large tuk tuk (Songthew) at a bartered down price of 50,000 kip for 3 people. He seemed nice and calm; happy to go with the flow. Thakhek at late at night in hard rain was not how I imagined. It was run down with only one backpaker hoste named 'Travel Lodge'. Certainly, I expected more with such talked about caves and scenery on its doorsteps. However, this did suggest it wasa less trodden path. Getting dropped at the hostel we investigated this choice. To our dismay it was pricey. Dorm beds at 25,000kip and doubles ranging from 40,00-110,000kip. The cheapest double rooms were not available ans all of us needed the price to be better. So we persisted by looking for alternative accomodation. The receptionist of the hostel gave us a look as if to say "they'll be back". One expensive looking hotel was totally full and our final option hada twin for 80,000kip. So we all decided to share. On our way we had passed a bar with boules, so we went back and picked up a few cld ones to enjoy on our comunnal balcony. Despite an exhausting bus journey we stayed up late enjoying company of our new Swiss friend. With the rainy weather we were all unsure of what tomorrow hd in store for us but at that moment we were happy to sleep and recover from the most difficult journey we had endured in a while.
Late to bed, we had a lazy start and found a local roadside cafe/bar for a needed coffee. It was Sunday so the place was busy with men playing billards. We sat watching the traffic pass up and dow the scrubby main road. A very white tourist marched passed, mistakenly thought he looked a little bewildered and lost- like Thakhek was not what he had imagined either. Not long after we approached us asking if we were heading to Kong Lo cave. He was on a mission to reach there. It was or aim to but we weren't sure if the rains had flooded it...or even how to get there. He quickly brought us up to speed. The greedy hostel were asking for 200,000kip each to take people there. There was no way we would be paying that kind of money. With no other travel agencies in Thakhek, the hostel had the monopoly for sure. Al and I suggested to use a songthew if the quote was better. Before long Al was on the side of the road flagging one down to ask. He was quoted 200,000 for the whole songthew. We had 8 people in total interested in visiting the cave, so this suddenly made the trip doable. We agreed to meet he Irish guy (Sean) at the hostel after we had checked out. Lorenzo had plans to leave at 11pm that night so Al and I wanted to claim a 40,000kip bed at the hostel for 1 night before we also planned to leave Thakhek. So after checking out and in we found Sean with 1 Finnishgu, 1 French, 1 Aussie an 1 more Brit. All agreeing to try the songthew option. Al only hadthe phone number for the driver that had quoted him We asked the hostel if we could make a quick call to a local number but the wanted to charge us 1000kip per minute! Instea we found a decent local tuk tuk driver who was more than happy to make the call for us. Within 5mins our songthew was waiting for us to pile in. 5 x 7 grown men plus me somehow squeezed in and we setoff on our adventure to Kong Lo cave!
The engine struggled from the very beginnning, even at the slightest incline. We calculated that at the current speed of 5km/hr it was going to take us about 5hrs to reach Kong Lo cave.
The Aussie and French guy ended up deciding that this adventure was not for them and they bailed from the songthew making it a bit more comfortable and a little easier onthe engine. Within 5 minutes after saying goodbye we experienced our first breakdown. The chain had fallen off but luckily this was easily fixable. Lorenzo and Janny (the Finnish guy) and professed their individual ambitions to do a road trip in a tuk tuk somtime in the futre, this also being an ambition of mine and Als, we all relished in this breakdown. We watched carefully enjoyed our first bit of tuk tuk 'training'! Back onthe road again we chugged on until we were out of town and enoying breathtaking scenery. Weaving and winding on smooth tarmac roads with backdrops of incredible bright green paddy fields with huge sheer rock faces jutting out of from nowhere. The vew made me think of what I always imagined a lost world to look like. With every twist and turn in the road another view would emerge keeping us entranced. Al ad I who were sitting next to the driver had the best view and we realised that this was a fantastic opportunity for making the most of Thakhek. We would not have been able to see the area if it had not been for everyone sharing the songthew with us.
After sometime we passed through some tiny settlements with stilted houses. This time we saw the stilts in good use. the water was almost up to the window and children wer swimming and playing the paddy field. It was a delight to watch as we slowly passed. In awe of our surroundings we had settled into our journey and happy even if it did take 5hours to reach the cave. Afetr about an hours driving the driver spoke to some young local people. Although we couldn't understand them, it soon became clear that they told him that it was not possible to eve reach Kong Lo cave because the muddy dirt roads ahead were impassable. They mimed the depth of mud, coming up to the top of the bike. Our driver was adamant that he would not go a meter futher, even though we were still on tarmac and had notreaced the muddy roads. Eventually he convinced us to visit a nearby cave instead. Going wth the flow were were all ok with it, but Sean had reallly been determined to see Kong Lo needed a little persuading. The songthew stopped next to a fast flowing small river. It was not safe to walk through it as it seemed quite deep despite being very narrow. Instead the driver pointed to a ricketty old rope bridge. It almost looked more unsafe than just trying to cross the river, but with you hestitance we saw some locals cross. Do as they do in Rome, so we began to cross. The day wa turning into quite an adventure and I was pleased that getting to Kong Lo hadnot been straight forward. These experiences are he ones that I crave when I am travelling, and they always come up by chance when they are least expected!
All safely across we headed towrads the ticket booth. Only 20,000kip to enter the cave and a further 30,000kip each to have a boat ride in the cave. The cave (Kong Aeng) was impressive but probably a lot smaller than Kong Lo. Water rushed through the cave loudly echoing as it bouced its way through the rocky caverns, climaxing in rapids and a small fall into the main pool of foamy water. 
Deeper into the cave the light from the outside was replaced with coloured fairy lights installed to help peopl find their way. The rock formations were smooth and it was evident where currents would gush through the voids when te space was flooded. The boat was worth taking. We went deep into the cave where there was no light at all, only our torches. The only other light we saw was sparkly fragments on certain areas of rock. On closer investigation the sparkly textures appeared to be insect larvae, many little flies that had already hatched surrounded us in a cloud and followed us when we tried rowed away. Dripping sounds from fresh water finding its way though cracks in the rock into still pools below were pronounced echoes added to the mysterious atmosphere of the beautiful void in the protruding giant rock that occupied the landscape. After the boats dropped us back on a wet rocky surface we continued through different caverns, before long finding natural light once more. This exit brought us high onto the rock. A hair raising climb down on moss covered rock brought us back to the entrance to the cave. Happy and fullfilled with our caving and difficult rock climb we all set back toward the tuk tuk.
The driver wainting for us patiently started to drive back. His mood ws somewhate notably less firendly. We asked him a couple of times to stop for food as we were all starving, but with each little settlement coming and going it seemed that he had no intention of stopping. All of a sudden he stopped on the side of the road with no buildings or people on sight. The front tyre on the bike had a puncture. This was the end of the road for us on the tuk tuk! Something was bound to happen sooner or later regarding our mode of transport, we joked. Unfortunately the tuk tuk driver wanted us to pay him and for us to wait on the side of the road for a local bus to take us the rest of the way. He wanted to full 200,000kip he had originally quoted us for the journey all the way to Kong Lo (10km from Thakhek) and back again. Clearly he had not taken us there, only to Kong Aeng (about 2km from Thakhek) and certainly had not succeeded in getting us back to Thakhek. So we didn't nthink it was fair to pay the full amount. We did our best to explain to him, but he was not prepared to try and understand or even listen. As soon as he realised we would not be giving him 200,000kip 
he started to shout in the typical Loa way to tryand 'win' the battle. Waving hands around and demading the money. We gave him what we felt was fair, 70,000kip (10,000kip each) but he was not satisfied. Whilst we were not going anywhere nor getting anywhere I tried to wav down a lift from passing vehicles. Many passed me probably seeing the other 6 guys I was with and not wanting to give this many people lift. Eventually a big SUV with about 7 young Lao people stopped for us. I bekoned for the guys to hurry up and get on the back before the tuk tuk driver had a chance to kick up a fuss. We were no quick enough though and the driver started explaining his side of the story to the young people. We would not be going anywhere until this was resolved now. The people did no understand what our reasons were at the beginning but eventually with drawings, and signals and broken Lao, they understood. Eventually the resolution was for us to pay an additional 50,000kip. This was ok with us as it wa still a reasonable amount to have spent on the whole excursion. The young people insisted on taking us into Thakhek for free.They squeezed into the car whils we took up the space outside at the back. They had the forsight that rain was on the way. The falang would have to get wet. And wet we got. The rain soon caught us. It was hard, cold and painful. We were absolutley soaked through. Not caring anywmore we got dropped off at the central monument and walked down the flooding streets in the rain. The locals watched us with amusment, the crazy falang all wet, not wearing waterproofs or carrying umbrellas!
Almost back at the hostel we were beckoned into a shop front where men were drinking Beer Lao. It was their weekend afterall. The welcomed us to join them. Still really hungry we managed to order some fried noodles and egg whipped up one of the men's wife along with a can of beer. We were all exhilerated from our jaunt to the cave and adrenalin running high after hitchhiking in the pounding rain. It had been an ace day. To some people, it migt have been disasterous but to us it had been the adventure we had been craving.
Dry and warm at the hostel we agreed to go and drink some beer at the place with the boules. A real local experience. I was the only women customer in there. The only other women were 'Tiger' girls who were tipped to top up drinks and make sure customers are happy. After several games of boules Sean and Neil (the other Brit) left fr a night bus. Lorenzo, Janny, Al ad I stayed. We were welcomed to join some drunk locals. It turned out that they were important figues, one being the Deputy Minister of the Forestry Comission for the whole of Laos. They ended up paying for the remaining of our drinks. It was a great way to have rounded up an epic day in Laos! Lorenzo ended p crashing on the end of our gigantic double bed. We made sure that the receptionist did not notice him so they could not try and charge us more later.
The following morning we all made our say slowly to the bus terminal with sore heads. A few iced coffees later and we bought our tickets. They were heading south, us heading to Vientianne- only 6hours away. With fond farewells we were truly happy to have met eachother and had such a fun and random time in Thakhek. One day we hope to meet these good guys on another tuk tuk adventure. But for now, Vientianne, the capital of Laos awaited us.
The engine struggled from the very beginnning, even at the slightest incline. We calculated that at the current speed of 5km/hr it was going to take us about 5hrs to reach Kong Lo cave. The Aussie and French guy ended up deciding that this adventure was not for them and they bailed from the songthew making it a bit more comfortable and a little easier onthe engine. Within 5 minutes after saying goodbye we experienced our first breakdown. The chain had fallen off but luckily this was easily fixable. Lorenzo and Janny (the Finnish guy) and professed their individual ambitions to do a road trip in a tuk tuk somtime in the futre, this also being an ambition of mine and Als, we all relished in this breakdown. We watched carefully enjoyed our first bit of tuk tuk 'training'! Back onthe road again we chugged on until we were out of town and enoying breathtaking scenery. Weaving and winding on smooth tarmac roads with backdrops of incredible bright green paddy fields with huge sheer rock faces jutting out of from nowhere. The vew made me think of what I always imagined a lost world to look like. With every twist and turn in the road another view would emerge keeping us entranced. Al ad I who were sitting next to the driver had the best view and we realised that this was a fantastic opportunity for making the most of Thakhek. We would not have been able to see the area if it had not been for everyone sharing the songthew with us.
After sometime we passed through some tiny settlements with stilted houses. This time we saw the stilts in good use. the water was almost up to the window and children wer swimming and playing the paddy field. It was a delight to watch as we slowly passed. In awe of our surroundings we had settled into our journey and happy even if it did take 5hours to reach the cave. Afetr about an hours driving the driver spoke to some young local people. Although we couldn't understand them, it soon became clear that they told him that it was not possible to eve reach Kong Lo cave because the muddy dirt roads ahead were impassable. They mimed the depth of mud, coming up to the top of the bike. Our driver was adamant that he would not go a meter futher, even though we were still on tarmac and had notreaced the muddy roads. Eventually he convinced us to visit a nearby cave instead. Going wth the flow were were all ok with it, but Sean had reallly been determined to see Kong Lo needed a little persuading. The songthew stopped next to a fast flowing small river. It was not safe to walk through it as it seemed quite deep despite being very narrow. Instead the driver pointed to a ricketty old rope bridge. It almost looked more unsafe than just trying to cross the river, but with you hestitance we saw some locals cross. Do as they do in Rome, so we began to cross. The day wa turning into quite an adventure and I was pleased that getting to Kong Lo hadnot been straight forward. These experiences are he ones that I crave when I am travelling, and they always come up by chance when they are least expected!
All safely across we headed towrads the ticket booth. Only 20,000kip to enter the cave and a further 30,000kip each to have a boat ride in the cave. The cave (Kong Aeng) was impressive but probably a lot smaller than Kong Lo. Water rushed through the cave loudly echoing as it bouced its way through the rocky caverns, climaxing in rapids and a small fall into the main pool of foamy water. 
Deeper into the cave the light from the outside was replaced with coloured fairy lights installed to help peopl find their way. The rock formations were smooth and it was evident where currents would gush through the voids when te space was flooded. The boat was worth taking. We went deep into the cave where there was no light at all, only our torches. The only other light we saw was sparkly fragments on certain areas of rock. On closer investigation the sparkly textures appeared to be insect larvae, many little flies that had already hatched surrounded us in a cloud and followed us when we tried rowed away. Dripping sounds from fresh water finding its way though cracks in the rock into still pools below were pronounced echoes added to the mysterious atmosphere of the beautiful void in the protruding giant rock that occupied the landscape. After the boats dropped us back on a wet rocky surface we continued through different caverns, before long finding natural light once more. This exit brought us high onto the rock. A hair raising climb down on moss covered rock brought us back to the entrance to the cave. Happy and fullfilled with our caving and difficult rock climb we all set back toward the tuk tuk.
The driver wainting for us patiently started to drive back. His mood ws somewhate notably less firendly. We asked him a couple of times to stop for food as we were all starving, but with each little settlement coming and going it seemed that he had no intention of stopping. All of a sudden he stopped on the side of the road with no buildings or people on sight. The front tyre on the bike had a puncture. This was the end of the road for us on the tuk tuk! Something was bound to happen sooner or later regarding our mode of transport, we joked. Unfortunately the tuk tuk driver wanted us to pay him and for us to wait on the side of the road for a local bus to take us the rest of the way. He wanted to full 200,000kip he had originally quoted us for the journey all the way to Kong Lo (10km from Thakhek) and back again. Clearly he had not taken us there, only to Kong Aeng (about 2km from Thakhek) and certainly had not succeeded in getting us back to Thakhek. So we didn't nthink it was fair to pay the full amount. We did our best to explain to him, but he was not prepared to try and understand or even listen. As soon as he realised we would not be giving him 200,000kip he started to shout in the typical Loa way to tryand 'win' the battle. Waving hands around and demading the money. We gave him what we felt was fair, 70,000kip (10,000kip each) but he was not satisfied. Whilst we were not going anywhere nor getting anywhere I tried to wav down a lift from passing vehicles. Many passed me probably seeing the other 6 guys I was with and not wanting to give this many people lift. Eventually a big SUV with about 7 young Lao people stopped for us. I bekoned for the guys to hurry up and get on the back before the tuk tuk driver had a chance to kick up a fuss. We were no quick enough though and the driver started explaining his side of the story to the young people. We would not be going anywhere until this was resolved now. The people did no understand what our reasons were at the beginning but eventually with drawings, and signals and broken Lao, they understood. Eventually the resolution was for us to pay an additional 50,000kip. This was ok with us as it wa still a reasonable amount to have spent on the whole excursion. The young people insisted on taking us into Thakhek for free.They squeezed into the car whils we took up the space outside at the back. They had the forsight that rain was on the way. The falang would have to get wet. And wet we got. The rain soon caught us. It was hard, cold and painful. We were absolutley soaked through. Not caring anywmore we got dropped off at the central monument and walked down the flooding streets in the rain. The locals watched us with amusment, the crazy falang all wet, not wearing waterproofs or carrying umbrellas!
Almost back at the hostel we were beckoned into a shop front where men were drinking Beer Lao. It was their weekend afterall. The welcomed us to join them. Still really hungry we managed to order some fried noodles and egg whipped up one of the men's wife along with a can of beer. We were all exhilerated from our jaunt to the cave and adrenalin running high after hitchhiking in the pounding rain. It had been an ace day. To some people, it migt have been disasterous but to us it had been the adventure we had been craving.
Dry and warm at the hostel we agreed to go and drink some beer at the place with the boules. A real local experience. I was the only women customer in there. The only other women were 'Tiger' girls who were tipped to top up drinks and make sure customers are happy. After several games of boules Sean and Neil (the other Brit) left fr a night bus. Lorenzo, Janny, Al ad I stayed. We were welcomed to join some drunk locals. It turned out that they were important figues, one being the Deputy Minister of the Forestry Comission for the whole of Laos. They ended up paying for the remaining of our drinks. It was a great way to have rounded up an epic day in Laos! Lorenzo ended p crashing on the end of our gigantic double bed. We made sure that the receptionist did not notice him so they could not try and charge us more later.
The following morning we all made our say slowly to the bus terminal with sore heads. A few iced coffees later and we bought our tickets. They were heading south, us heading to Vientianne- only 6hours away. With fond farewells we were truly happy to have met eachother and had such a fun and random time in Thakhek. One day we hope to meet these good guys on another tuk tuk adventure. But for now, Vientianne, the capital of Laos awaited us.
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