India

Overview:

India is a place of extremes. Extreme heat and dust, then torrential rain and flooding. Not the UK’s version of flooding, we are talking FLOODING. The Indian way of life also varies from the cities, which are really hectic to the ultra slow pace of life in the country/ forest. Travelling is also extreme. People hang on the the outside of trains and journeys can take 5 days to travel across the country.

Cash and Budgeting for India:

We travelled as a couple which makes things cheaper.  We also balanced our experiences out and although we mostly stayed in places that were as cheap as possible when we were on the road we also took part in a 18 days of free accommodation through “working” on a mango farm, which was actually a valuable part of our experience and well worth it.

The Rupee (Rs) when we were there for a total of 117 days varied between 63 – 71 rupees to the pound.  It is worth noting that India´s inflation rate is currently at about 11%, which made it hard to appreciate how much hotels and hostels would cost when we were there. Remember the inflation rate when the guide books give you a price for when you will be there. The books are often 8 months old even when they are “Hot off the press”.

Mumbai was the most expensive place we went to and cost around 7- 10 pounds for a reasonably cheap night.  We also spent 1 pound per night in a scummy dormatory in Aurangabad.

Accomodation cost us on average 98.78 Rs (approx 1.50 pounds) per night for 117 days, so it can be done cheaply!

Transport cost us on average 58.43 Rs (Approx 87p), which included trains, taxis, richshaws, horserides in Agra and EVERYTHING.  Trains are the cheapest way to go.  We never caught a ´normal´ cab, but always a rickshaw and ensured that we were not ripped off at any point.  We would walk if there were no rickshaw drivers who would take us for the rate that was around usual for Indian people.

We went to the following attractions and give the associated costs (using an average of 67 Rs to the pound):

Ellora Caves:  250 Rs (3.73 pounds)

Dalautabad (Fort):  200  (2.98 pounds)

Taj Mahal:  750  (11.19 pounds)

Boat Ride down the Ganges in Varanasi: 90 (1.35 pounds)

Yoga for 2 hrs over 2 days in Varanasi:  400 (5.97 pounds)

Banjakri Falss Gangtok:  17 Rs (25p)

Steam Train in Darjeeling:  240 Rs (3.58 pounds)

Cooking course in Varanasi:  225 Rs (3.35 pounds)

Weather:

This section is at the top because it has a huge influence over which cities you might want to travel to, where becomes unsafe and what activities are available. Of course this is generally influenced by the dry vs monsoon season. The dry season is exactly that: dry and very hot (40- 45C often). Below provides information on the movement and timing of the monsoon across India.

When?

The southwest monsoon reaches the coast of the southern state of Kerala around June 1. It usually arrives in Mumbai approximately 10 days later, reaches Delhi by the end of June, and covers the rest of India by mid-July. Nepal is hit by Monsoons between July to August, when it rains at night and clears thw air for better views of the Himalayan range.

How?

When the southwest monsoon reaches India it splits into two parts around the mountainous region of the Western Ghats in south-central India. The Western section moves north over the Arabian Sea and up the coastal (West side) side of the Western Ghats. The other flows over the Bay of Bengal, up through Assam, and hits the Eastern Himalaya range, giving the monsoon extra strength.

Where Receives the Most and Least Rain?

Delhi, Bangalore and Hyderabad receive comparatively less rain. Chennai doesn’t receive much rain at all during the southwest monsoon, as the south of India (the states of Tamil Nadu, Karnataka, and Kerala) gets most of its rainfall from the northeast monsoon, from October to December. the Deccan Plateau is also relatively shielded by the Western Ghats mountains and also receives relatively little rain.

Yet rain storms there can be very intense during this time, especially during September when the humidity takes longer to build.

The eastern Himalaya region, around Darjeeling, Shillong and Assam is one of the wettest areas in the whole world during the monsoon. Travel to this region should definitely be avoided at this time as it experiences violent flooding. In 2008 this region was devastated by floods, although less so than further down river, as the relative height of the land here sees the water run down to lower ground.

While the Ganga river and the Brahmaputra (north east) river regions make for the areas most prone to floods, states like Orissa suffers from the wrath of river Mahanadi, when the degraded mangrove system makes the region more susceptible to damage.

Things to do:

Errrr… just a bit! The following is an overview of some of the different things of particular interest and variation.

Safari to see the Bengal tiger: Jeep, entrance and guide Rp 3180 (£45). Available in many places through north and central India. The highest probability of seeing a tiger however is in Bandhavgarh national park.

The Elephant Festival: A unique event held in Assam in mid February. Elephants are groomed to perfection, amd walk a catwalk before an enthralled audience. The elephants move in procession, run races, play games of various kind.

Elephant ride: Often as part of a safari, which incurs additional costs before elephant hire (approx rs 600/ £8.75).

Find out what is happening and connect with others who have visited India:

http://www.indiamike.com

Diwali: Festival of light that is famous throughout the world. If you are in India in November you will see it.

Rathyatra: Chariot festival celebrated for 8 days is held at the famous Jagannath Temple at Puri (Orissa).

Kaziranga National Park: Located in Assam is inhabited by the world’s largest population of one-horned rhinoceroses, as well as many mammals, including tigers, elephants, panthers and bears, and thousands of birds.

Pongal: Harvest festival of the Southern States, like Kerala notes feasting and shedding of old household items which are collectively burnt.

Ganga Dussehra: During this festival ten days of the month are devoted to the worship of Holy River Ganga venerated by the Hindus as a mother as well as a goddess.

Kumbh Mela: If you are around then this is a must. Held every 12 years for the full Mela and every 6 for a half Mela (2010 was a half Mela). An inclusive Hindu festival celebrated by tens of millions. People across the country bathe in the spiritual waters of the Ganges, Shipra and Godavari rivers. See kumbhamela.net for more info.

Holi: The festival of colour involves getting soaked in coloured water. Bring a change of clothes.

Teej Festival: One of the most popular festivals of India. Teej is widely celebrated, but its real charm can be found only in Jaipur, Rajasthan. It celebrates the arrival of monsoon (July- Aug), after the scorching sun of summers with processions to celebrate Goddess Parvati.

Chaitra Navrati: Navratri, the festival of nine nights is celebrated with true devotion and purity all over the country, by visiting temples and offering pujas at the Mother’s feet.

Ganesh Chaturthi: A festival during Aug/ Sept that sees large idols of Ganesh being produced and sold, worshipped for 10 days and then cast off into the sea. Sweets and dancng are abound in this fun filled ocassion. In several states of India, but especially in Maharashtra (e.g. Mumbai) clay idols of Ganesh in varying sizes are made and sold.

Mechuka Gompa: The popular Tibetan Buddhist temple in Basar, is a census town, and a shelter for tribal communities like Adi, Memba and Khamba.

Pushkar Camel Fair: Held in Rajastan every year during Oct/ Nov, with numerous random contests and trading, all combined with a yearly spiritual dip in the Pushka for Kartik Purnima.

Ajanta Caves: The most ornate caves and popular to visit, these Hindu monsteries date back to 2nd century BC.

Kamakhya Temple:
Situated atop the Nilachal Hills of Assam, Kamakhya is an ancient seat of Tantrik and Shakti cults of Hinduism. A small distance from Kamakhya temple is Bubhaneshwari temple from where one can have a panoramic view of the Brahmaputra River and the city.

Travel:

The best way to get around India is by train. There are loads of options that allow flexibility between cost and comfort. It is the preferred method of travel by most.

Trains charge for 3 main things.

1. The Route and distance
2. Reservation Charges
3. Superfast charges (for more direct trains)

There are a few options with regards to class:

FC = First Class

1A – 3A = 1-3 tiered bunk bed cabins (with Air Conditioning)

CC = Chair Class (Sitting on wooden chairs without air con)

SL = Sleeping Class

2S = Second Sitting

3E = 3rd class (with AC)

Air Conditioning is important, especially in the summer as overcrowded trains with dusty and 40C heat on a 50 hour journey…. well… you can imagine it.

Routes and Costs:

All the above can be found on the following site, which provides train maps and the timetables for each route listed.

http://www.indianrailways.gov.in/Deptts/Coaching/Tag/index.htm

An ace site that allows you to check out the journey you are planning to make and the associated costs. This is where our fare info has come from.

http://www.erail.in/

Trains are highly fragmented in India. There are often breaks or “Halts” in the journey that have long waits for the connection. This can be between 1 hour and 10 hours, so ensure you look out for this and be prepared!

Also ensure that if you are going to travel on 3A sleeper class that you book in advance, especially between two large cities as these are often booked up a week in advance.

If you are going on a long journey over night and you are knackered it might be worth investing in sleep. Upgrading from a 3AC class to 1AC, where you are alone will cost approx double the price of a 3A sleeper class cabin. The value here depends on the length of the journey vs how tired you feel!

If you have internet access then it is advisable to book a train ticket online (using credit card for safety) as the ticket halls are hot, sweaty and take hours to buy a ticket. You generally need to queue to get a ticket that allows you to buy an actual train ticket! The key here is planning and having lots of time…

Road/ “Bus”:

There is an option to travel by road through private companies and networks of carriers who offer more exclusive travel. These are quoted as buses but can be more often than not estate cars (Volvos), small minibuses or coaches and vary wildly. So do the drivers and the state of the transport. As such if you book bus travel try to find out what kind of buses the company use.

See http://eroad.in/ for more information, routes and costs etc. or www.redBus.in

A journey from Delhi to Mumbai for example:

It therefore takes 15 hrs rather than 17 on the train. A good similarity in cost is between the trains 2AC cost (Rs 1352) vs a bus that carries +2 with AC (Rs 1980). So buses are more expensive, but generally quicker between major cities and always quieter.

However taking another journey: Bangalore to Chennai (Madras)

By bus this takes 8 hours and prices range from Rs 280 (£4) for a non A/C seater service to Rs 1100 (£15) for an A/c “HiTech” coach. The train takes 6.10 hrs costing £7 for 3a and £10 for 2A.

Buses are a lot slower and more hazardous in the rainy season, so thus should be considered. In the mountains you are able to ride on the roof and this is often considered safer than inside as if the bus falls off a ledge then you can jump off with far greater chance of survival!

Another primary consideration is the quality and purpose of transportation. Some buses are produced for tourists and these need booking in advance. Local buses on the otherhand carry more than the maximum passengers and carry ‘goods’, like chickens or large loads etc. This can make for an interesting or harder trip, however you look at it.

Oh I’ll take the “fun bus” please!

There are also 2 additional variables to take into account. On A/C trips the windows are shut, locked, don’t open. This is generally supposed to be good. However you can smoke on India buses and when there are people being sick, carrying chickens etc then the air is recirculated and can smell bad to say the least! As such non-AC trips provide fresh air, despite being far hotter, but are often half the price.

Secondly there are also “Video Buses” and “Kareoke Buses”. These are not tame and very loud. The music from the video buses make conversation very hard (think going clubbing hard). For an hour or so fine, but after 50!?

Rail Maps:

West India Rail Map

North India

North East India

East India

South India

More Maps:

1. Large Schematic Map of the whole of India

2. Samit Roychoudhury (Indian Train Spotter to the max) produced the most detailed collection of rail maps with interactive Map (Excellent)

3. Rail Map with legend of “Tourist Interest” Destinations
 

Malaria:

Malaria risk exists throughout the year in the whole country at altitudes below 2000 m, with overall 40% to 50% of cases due to P. falciparum and the remaining due to P. vivax.

There is no transmission in parts of the states of Himachal Pradesh, Jammu and Kashmir, and Sikkim.

Risk of falciparum malaria and drug resistance are relatively higher in the north-eastern states, in Andaman and Nicobar Islands, Chhattisgarh, Goa, Gujarat, Jharkhand, Karnataka (with exception of the city of Bangalore), Madhya Pradesh, Maharashtra (with the exception of the cities of Mumbai, Nagpur, Nasik and Pune), Orissa and West Bengal (with the exception of the city of Kolkata).

P. falciparum resistance to chloroquine and sulfadoxine-pyrimethamine reported. As such ensure that Anti-Malarials are dioxycycline or Malarone. (Compare costs here by scrolling down the page a bit!)

Useful Links:

north-east-india.com

incredibleindia.org

Volunteer tea picking in NE India

Organic Farming in Jaipur at saharia organic resort